John Galliano for Maison Margiela, Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear It would take a very long time indeed to describe some of the outfits John Galliano dreamed up at Maison Margiela for Fall—and even then, the words might not help at all. Put simply: It seemed to be an exercise in cutting out pieces of clothing and… Continue reading Maison Margiela, Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Category: Fashion
Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear, No Fear in New New York.
Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear Whether it’s the Statue of Liberty beckoning over the curve in the horizon as your steamer approaches from the east, or a frantic cluster of handwritten “Have you been detained?” posters waiting outside immigration as the automatic doors of JFK whoosh blessedly closed behind you, every outsider’s first arrival… Continue reading Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear, No Fear in New New York.
Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris
Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris If anyone had Demna Gvasalia down as purely a streetwear revolutionary who shot from nowhere to lead a youth cult, then they’d have been taken aback by the sight of the silver-haired madame in dark glasses, fur coat, and a pencil skirt who stepped off the escalator at the Centre… Continue reading Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris
Ports 1961, Pre-Fall 2017
Ports 1961, Pre-Fall 2017, London, 2017 Ports 1961 is one of those sleeper labels, which, once discovered, women tend to be evangelically enthusiastic—if not, quietly smug—about wearing. Since Natasa Cagalj took over the direction of the womenswear here, she’s been developing a set of strengths—the things she does with shirts, pants, knitwear, and coats, in… Continue reading Ports 1961, Pre-Fall 2017
Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris
Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris Hood By Air makes things difficult. These images were shot days after its Spring 2017 show in Paris, a frenzied cruise in semi-darkness through a gay sauna in a seedy part of the Marais that culminated in a synchronized swim in the hammam’s subterranean pool (don’t think: Busby… Continue reading Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris
Vetements Spring 2017 Ready To Wear, Couture Season Fall 2016, Paris
Vetements Spring 2017 Ready To Wear, Couture Season Fall 2016, Paris The Gvasalia brothers, Demna, the designer, and Guram, the business brains behind the Vetements phenomenon, pulled off a coup for the fashion credibility of Paris with a show in the Galeries Lafayette tonight. On many levels, it was an event which satirically contravened half… Continue reading Vetements Spring 2017 Ready To Wear, Couture Season Fall 2016, Paris
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence Earlier this year, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation contacted Raf Simons. They asked if he’d like to work with them on something. He said yes. That’s the shorthand version of the story behind the collection he presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, perfectly chimed with a duo of Mapplethorpe exhibitions at… Continue reading Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence
Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017 Florence
Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017, Florence A change of scenery, a change of pace. The menswear designer invited by Pitti Immagine to stage a show in Florence for Spring 2017 is Gosha Rubchinskiy. Moscow born, based, and somewhat obsessed, his collections thus far have unraveled his Soviet identity, nostalgically harking back to the time… Continue reading Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017 Florence
Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York
Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York Remember clubbing? Do people still do that? You know—roll deep, head to some warehouse where the music is so loud it obliterates all reality, and emerge busted at sunrise to face the city you left behind the night before. That kind of clubbing. Tim Coppens remembers those… Continue reading Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York
Christopher Kane Fall 2016, Ready To Wear, London
Christopher Kane, Ready To Wear, Fall 2016, London “Our mum used to embarrass us when she picked us up from school wearing one of those plastic rain hats,” said Tammy Kane, Christopher Kane’s sister. The very private world of the Kanes and their memories of growing up outside Glasgow in the ’90s will always inform Christopher… Continue reading Christopher Kane Fall 2016, Ready To Wear, London
Balenciaga, Ready To Wear, Paris, Fall 2016
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga, Ready To Wear, Paris, Fall 2016 “How do you persuade a woman to wear a two-piece suit who is not the German Chancellor?” asked Demna Gvasalia, who has spent the last six months looking into the Balenciaga archive and methodically thinking through how the essence of Cristóbal Balenciaga can be relevant… Continue reading Balenciaga, Ready To Wear, Paris, Fall 2016
Thomas Tait Spring Summer 2016
Thomas Tait Spring Summer 2016 Thomas Tait’s show this afternoon was one of those odd outings that don’t seem at first to be up to much, but then accrue in force as the looks accumulate. The impact of Tait’s latest collection generated from the ways the clothes forced your engagement, whether via the play of… Continue reading Thomas Tait Spring Summer 2016
Resort 2016: Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière
Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière, Resort 2016, 2015 The Resort season has turned into a mini architecture tour. Karl Lagerfeld set up Chanel operations at Zaha Hadid’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Monday. Raf Simons will show Dior at Pierre Cardin’s south of France home next week. And today Louis Vuitton had over 800… Continue reading Resort 2016: Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière
Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear: Christian Dior
Christian Dior, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear, Paris, 2015 Throbbing Gristle’s “Hot on the Heels of Love,” the piece of music that soundtracked the Christian Dior show today, has a chilly, slaphappy Fifty Shades quality that seemed tailor-made for a collection whose animal essence was fulsomely described by Raf Simons as “something more liberated, darker, more sexual.” Something… Continue reading Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear: Christian Dior
Jil Sander, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear
Jil Sander, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear, Milan, 2015 Frédéric Sanchez’s soundtrack—a blurry, impressionistic, almost atonal mesh of Nico’s and Chet Baker’s versions of “My Funny Valentine”—suggested chaos. But the set was a precisely ordered group of colored pillars, like a geometric Stonehenge. Rodolfo Paglialunga imagined his new collection for Jil Sander forming somewhere between the chaos… Continue reading Jil Sander, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear
Céline Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear
Phoebe Philo for Céline, Fall 2015, Paris, 2015 There is allegedly no such thing as coincidence, so presumably there’s some meaning to the fact that Phoebe Philo was showing her new Céline collection on International Women’s Day, even though she conceded that she was very conscious of walking a line between the responsibility that has been bestowed… Continue reading Céline Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear
Céline, Spring 2014, Ready-to-Wear
Céline, Spring 2014, Ready-to-Wear Back to the Tennis Club de Paris today to see what Phoebe Philo’s Céline woman has been up to. And, according to the mood book on each brightly colored, blocky seat, she has been looking at graffiti—not just any graffiti, but graffiti through the medium of Brassaï’s photographs, obviously. In the primal black… Continue reading Céline, Spring 2014, Ready-to-Wear
New York Fashion Week: Calvin Klein Collection, Spring / Summer 2014
Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein Collection, Spring 2014, New York Francisco Costa is celebrating his tenth anniversary at the helm of Calvin Klein this season. It’s a milestone, and the brand is doing it up: new Tribeca venue, A-list star power in the form of Nicole Kidman and Rooney Mara (the face of the label’s just-launched… Continue reading New York Fashion Week: Calvin Klein Collection, Spring / Summer 2014
Resort 2014: Christian Dior
Raf Simons for Christian Dior, Resort 2014, Paris A dynamic forward movement for Dior. First and foremost, Simons was challenging himself, the way Miuccia Prada does with things she feels she has no natural instinct for. Lace, for instance, has never been part of Raf’s lingo. He didn’t want the history or the romance of… Continue reading Resort 2014: Christian Dior
Christian Dior, Spring Summer 2013
Raf Simons for Christian Dior, Spring Summer 2013, Paris, 28 September 2012 The Schubert piece that was playing as invitees entered the huge, purpose-built salons where Raf Simons showed his first ready-to-wear collection for Dior today was familiar, especially to fans of The Hunger, David Bowie’s 1983 vampire movie. Simons is an ardent Bowie-phile, and… Continue reading Christian Dior, Spring Summer 2013