Tag: Fashion

Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear, No Fear in New New York.

  Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear Whether it’s the Statue of Liberty beckoning over the curve in the horizon as your steamer approaches from the east, or a frantic cluster of handwritten “Have you been detained?” posters waiting outside immigration as the automatic doors of JFK whoosh blessedly closed behind you, every outsider’s first arrival… Continue reading Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear, No Fear in New New York.

Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris

Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris If anyone had Demna Gvasalia down as purely a streetwear revolutionary who shot from nowhere to lead a youth cult, then they’d have been taken aback by the sight of the silver-haired madame in dark glasses, fur coat, and a pencil skirt who stepped off the escalator at the Centre… Continue reading Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris

Ports 1961, Pre-Fall 2017

Ports 1961,  Pre-Fall 2017, London, 2017 Ports 1961 is one of those sleeper labels, which, once discovered, women tend to be evangelically enthusiastic—if not, quietly smug—about wearing. Since Natasa Cagalj took over the direction of the womenswear here, she’s been developing a set of strengths—the things she does with shirts, pants, knitwear, and coats, in… Continue reading Ports 1961, Pre-Fall 2017

Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris

Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris Hood By Air makes things difficult. These images were shot days after its Spring 2017 show in Paris, a frenzied cruise in semi-darkness through a gay sauna in a seedy part of the Marais that culminated in a synchronized swim in the hammam’s subterranean pool (don’t think: Busby… Continue reading Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris

Vetements Spring 2017 Ready To Wear, Couture Season Fall 2016, Paris

Vetements Spring 2017 Ready To Wear, Couture Season Fall 2016, Paris The Gvasalia brothers, Demna, the designer, and Guram, the business brains behind the Vetements phenomenon, pulled off a coup for the fashion credibility of Paris with a show in the Galeries Lafayette tonight. On many levels, it was an event which satirically contravened half… Continue reading Vetements Spring 2017 Ready To Wear, Couture Season Fall 2016, Paris

Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence

Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence Earlier this year, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation contacted Raf Simons. They asked if he’d like to work with them on something. He said yes. That’s the shorthand version of the story behind the collection he presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, perfectly chimed with a duo of Mapplethorpe exhibitions at… Continue reading Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence

Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017 Florence

  Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017, Florence A change of scenery, a change of pace. The menswear designer invited by Pitti Immagine to stage a show in Florence for Spring 2017 is Gosha Rubchinskiy. Moscow born, based, and somewhat obsessed, his collections thus far have unraveled his Soviet identity, nostalgically harking back to the time… Continue reading Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017 Florence

Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York

  Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York Remember clubbing? Do people still do that? You know—roll deep, head to some warehouse where the music is so loud it obliterates all reality, and emerge busted at sunrise to face the city you left behind the night before. That kind of clubbing. Tim Coppens remembers those… Continue reading Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York

Christopher Kane Fall 2016, Ready To Wear, London

 Christopher Kane, Ready To Wear, Fall 2016, London “Our mum used to embarrass us when she picked us up from school wearing one of those plastic rain hats,” said Tammy Kane, Christopher Kane’s sister. The very private world of the Kanes and their memories of growing up outside Glasgow in the ’90s will always inform Christopher… Continue reading Christopher Kane Fall 2016, Ready To Wear, London

Balenciaga, Ready To Wear, Paris, Fall 2016

Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga, Ready To Wear, Paris, Fall 2016 “How do you persuade a woman to wear a two-piece suit who is not the German Chancellor?” asked Demna Gvasalia, who has spent the last six months looking into the Balenciaga archive and methodically thinking through how the essence of Cristóbal Balenciaga can be relevant… Continue reading Balenciaga, Ready To Wear, Paris, Fall 2016

Resort 2016: Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière

Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière, Resort 2016, 2015 The Resort season has turned into a mini architecture tour. Karl Lagerfeld set up Chanel operations at Zaha Hadid’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Monday. Raf Simons will show Dior at Pierre Cardin’s south of France home next week. And today Louis Vuitton had over 800… Continue reading Resort 2016: Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière

Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear: Christian Dior

Christian Dior, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear, Paris, 2015 Throbbing Gristle’s “Hot on the Heels of Love,” the piece of music that soundtracked the Christian Dior show today, has a chilly, slaphappy Fifty Shades quality that seemed tailor-made for a collection whose animal essence was fulsomely described by Raf Simons as “something more liberated, darker, more sexual.” Something… Continue reading Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear: Christian Dior

Jil Sander, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear

Jil Sander, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear, Milan, 2015 Frédéric Sanchez’s soundtrack—a blurry, impressionistic, almost atonal mesh of Nico’s and Chet Baker’s versions of “My Funny Valentine”—suggested chaos. But the set was a precisely ordered group of colored pillars, like a geometric Stonehenge. Rodolfo Paglialunga imagined his new collection for Jil Sander forming somewhere between the chaos… Continue reading Jil Sander, Fall 2015, Ready-to-Wear

Céline Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear

 Phoebe Philo for Céline, Fall 2015, Paris, 2015 There is allegedly no such thing as coincidence, so presumably there’s some meaning to the fact that Phoebe Philo was showing her new Céline collection on International Women’s Day, even though she conceded that she was very conscious of walking a line between the responsibility that has been bestowed… Continue reading Céline Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear

New York Fashion Week: Calvin Klein Collection, Spring / Summer 2014

Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein Collection, Spring 2014, New York Francisco Costa is celebrating his tenth anniversary at the helm of Calvin Klein this season. It’s a milestone, and the brand is doing it up: new Tribeca venue, A-list star power in the form of Nicole Kidman and Rooney Mara (the face of the label’s just-launched… Continue reading New York Fashion Week: Calvin Klein Collection, Spring / Summer 2014

Nicolas Ghesquiére, First interviews after leaving Balenciaga

Nicolas Ghesquiére, First interviews after leaving Balenciaga, System and 032c, 2013 System magazine’s Jonathan Wingfield interviewed Nicolas Ghesquière several times between early December 2012 and late March 2013. This was the first time Ghesquière had chosen to speak publicly about his shock departure after 15 years at Balenciaga. Ghesquière opens up about why he left… Continue reading Nicolas Ghesquiére, First interviews after leaving Balenciaga

Marfa Journal, Issue 1

Marfa Journal, Issue 1, 2013 Marfa Journal Issue 1 is a new publication created by artists for artists to connect contemporary high-end fashion and art. Marfa Journal‘s overriding concept is inspired by the small desert town of the same name in Texas, which has attracted the art world since the 1960s and continues to be a… Continue reading Marfa Journal, Issue 1

Photography: Marcelo Krasilcic, 1990s, 2013

Marcelo Krasilcic, Devra and Elaine, New York, 1996 and Untitled, From the book, 1990s, 2013 Part of a generation of photographers that includes Juergen Teller and Terry Richardson, Marcel Krasilcic (born 1969) moved to New York in 1990. He quickly became known for his spare but erotic photographs of liberated youth, artists, designers and musicians,… Continue reading Photography: Marcelo Krasilcic, 1990s, 2013

Christian Dior, Spring Summer 2013

Raf Simons for Christian Dior, Spring Summer 2013, Paris, 28 September 2012 The Schubert piece that was playing as invitees entered the huge, purpose-built salons where Raf Simons showed his first ready-to-wear collection for Dior today was familiar, especially to fans of The Hunger, David Bowie’s 1983 vampire movie. Simons is an ardent Bowie-phile, and… Continue reading Christian Dior, Spring Summer 2013